Ceiling Fan Frequently Asked Questions
I. What is the purpose of a ceiling fan?
II. How do ceiling fans lower the temperature?
IIa. How do ceiling fans help heat in the winter?
IIb. How can the same fan help both in the
winter AND summer?
III. What rooms should have ceiling fans installed?
IV. What size fan is needed for a particular
room?
V. My ceiling is lower, do I need a 'hugger'
fan?
VI. My ceiling is higher, how long of a downrod
do I need?
VII. What sort of control options are available?
VIII. How many blades is best?
IX. What are the quality differences between
fans on the market?
IXa. What about American Made fans? Are they
still available, and are they significantly better than
imports?
IXb. What makes a ceiling fan Energy Efficient?
How do I consider this when choosing a fan?
X. Fan Operation: What speed and direction
settings should be used?
Xa. Is there any purpose to running the fan
constantly even when people are not present, or is this
a waste of energy?
XI. How effective are ceiling fans with heaters
built in?
XII. What is the use for a fan mounted outside,
such as on a porch? What sort of fan is recommended?
XIII. Ceiling fan lights-- what options are
available?
XIIIa. I am replacing a large light fixture,
and most fan lights aren't bright enough. What fan or
fan light kit do I buy?
I. What is the purpose of a ceiling fan?
A ceiling fan serves two purposes
1. To provide a breeze thereby creating the "wind
chill factor"
2. To circulate the air throughout a room or area
Most people who purchase a ceiling fan do so to utilize
the first option. You expect to turn on the fan and
feel a breeze, or at least some moving air. This is
most effective with the fan in downdraft mode on a medium
or high speed. While you will feel the strongest breeze
directly under the fan, if the fan is good quality,
and the proper size and installation for the room, you
should be able to feel air circulating no matter where
you are in the room.
Circulation is perhaps the most effective (as well
as underrated) use of a ceiling fan. Regardless of the
room temperature, the warmer air rises to the ceiling,
and the cold air sinks to the floor. Depending on where
your heat (and/or cooling) source is located, there
are also hot and cold spots both in a room and building.
By evenly circulating the air throughout a room, a series
of rooms, or even an entire building, ceiling fans can
eliminate these hot and cold spots and provide a much
more comfortable climate. More on this in the sections
below.
II. How do ceiling fans lower the temperature?
They don't, at least not literally. Unlike an air conditioner,
ceiling fans do not directly affect the air temperature.
That does not mean, however, that ceiling fans are not
effective in cooling.
As pertaining to the two purposes listed in question
(I):
1. The moving air from a ceiling fan will help you
feel cooler regardless of the temperature of a room.
It is much the same as being outside in the summer--
it can be 80-90 degrees, and if there is a breeze, it
is very pleasant. But on a day with no wind it may be
painful to be outside. Standing under a ceiling fan
you may feel a strong breeze, and receive the direct
benefit of the fan operating. The moving air throughout
the room allows you to feel cooler even if you are not
directly in the path of the fan.
2. Also, the circulation from a ceiling fan can disperse
the cool air from lower areas (and air conditioning)
into the central, inhabited areas of a room. Cool air
sinking to the floor isn't useful in the summer unless
you're laying down on the floor, and often times the
air conditioning vent in a room will be off to one side.
Split level rooms or houses will often have temperature
discrepancies. Ceiling fans circulate the air, evening
out these cold spots. In the summer this can often make
the useable parts of a room much cooler, in conjunction
with air conditioning or alone.
IIa. How do ceiling fans help heat in the winter?
Much the same as they help with cooling in section
2. Running your heat in the winter, hot air rises to
the ceiling, and so much of the heat is wasted. Especially
if you heat with a wood stove or similar and the heat
is not evenly dispersed by vents near the floor. Vaulted
ceilings are particularly troublesome. Running a ceiling
fan during the winter, to push down warm air from the
ceiling and eliminate cold spots, can save a great deal
of heating energy. Additional note: there are some designs
of fans with heaters included, we have a section on
these.
IIb. How
can the same fan help both in the winter AND summer?
If it can make it feel warmer in the winter, why does
it not do so in the summer? And how does it not make
it feel colder in the winter?
Well, for starters, you are likely running your heat
in the winter and not in the summer. The primary source
of heat that the fan circulates in the winter is that
produced by your furnace. And, in the summer, if you
use an air conditioner, that provides the cool air source.
Secondly, it depends on the setting on which you use
your fan. High and sometimes medium speeds will create
a detectable breeze that will make those in the area
feel cooler. It will also, in most cases, create a strong
circulation force that will reach the cool air closest
to the ground. Lower speeds often do not create a noticeable
draft, and often the circulation only reaches between
the higher, heat-trapped areas and living areas, not
entirely encompassing the cooler air lowest to the ground.
The reverse feature is also used to create different
circulation patterns for winter, see the section on
that below.
III. What rooms should have ceiling fans installed?
The short answer: EVERY room. Depending on your personal
preferences, any and every room can benefit from a ceiling
fan installed.
Recall the two purposes:
1. Any room in which people are present can benefit
from the cooling breeze of a ceiling fan
2. Any room large enough to fit a fan can benefit from
the circulation, particularly if it is in a central
location.
Let us examine some rooms:
Living room: One of the most common locations. Often
a room in which people relax, the breeze from a ceiling
fan can be very much enjoyed. Also living rooms are
usually large, centrally located, and sometimes have
high or vaulted ceilings, all of which are important
factors benefiting from the added circulation.
Bedrooms: Many people enjoy the cooling breeze as they
sleep, particularly in the warm summer months. The white
noise from air moving can also be relaxing. It is uncomfortable
for some to sleep in a still, stuffy room, and use a
ceiling fan year round on various speeds.
Kitchen: The kitchen is often the hottest, stuffiest
room in the house, especially while cooking. A ceiling
fan can disperse the hot air and cooking smells and
provide a breeze for the comfort of those cooking. During
the winter, distribute the heat generated by cooking
throughout surrounding areas to save energy.
Dining room: Use low speeds to gently circulate the
warm air from set food without cooling it, adding to
the comfort of diners. Also most fans offer elegant
chandelier options which are very fitting over a dining
room table.
Porch: Surprisingly, fans are very effective when used
on covered porches. This allows a breeze to be felt
even on days with no wind. Also, the air current from
a fan can be effective in driving away bugs. See section
XII for information on what sort of fan to use.
Foyer/Entry: Prevent cooled/heated air from escaping
outside when the front door is opening by positioning
a fan over the door and running it on high or medium.
The current from the fan creates an "air curtain"
that can help alleviate drafts. Prior to modern HVAC,
many grocery stores and similar businesses positioned
ceiling fans over doors, to prevent heat from escaping,
bugs from getting in, and also to blanket customers
with a cool breeze as they entered. If you feel a breeze
as you enter you may feel instantly cooler regardless
of the inside temperature. Lastly, many foyers also
have a stairwell, which brings us to
Open Stairways (and balconies): One of the most effective
places to use a ceiling fan for circulation. Many 2
(or more) story or split-level homes often suffer from
upper floors being much warmer than lower floors. This
is predicable, as heat rises. By placing ceiling fans
in areas where floors connect and running them consistently
you can create circulation between the floors that will
more evenly distribute heat and cooling.
Garage/Workshop: Help circulate heat in colder months.
Disperse fumes and sawdust. And, of course, a cool breeze
while you are working.
Bathroom: Prevent moisture and condensation from settling.
Increase comfort for those more prolonged stays. See
the outdoor fans section section for what sort of fan to use, as showers
create moisture it is recommended to use the same sort
of fan as an outdoor setting.
In summarization . . . the more time people spend in
a given room, the greater the benefit of a ceiling fan.
For circulation, especially large rooms, and/or those
with high and/or vaulted ceilings. People will have
their preferences on where they most prefer the benefits,
but ultimately any room is a good idea.
IV. What size fan is needed
for a particular room?
Ceiling fans commonly come in two sizes: 52" for
larger rooms and 42" for smaller rooms. Many companies
offer 30-36" fans for exceptionally small rooms,
and 56-60" fans for larger and/or commercial settings.
The most common size by far is the 52" fan, which
is typically appropriate for most rooms.
There are plenty of charts and diagrams out there that
address this, usually by square footage, and we will
get to that in a minute. But there are a few important
points to consider:
1. Install the largest fan that you can fit that does
not look out of place aesthetically. A smaller fan will
have to work harder to cover larger areas and therefore
be less efficient, whereas installing a large fan it
can be run on lower speeds more effectively. Smaller
fans also run faster and therefore are more prone to
noise. As they are less common, companies often inflate
the price. Use a 52" fan wherever reasonable.
2. Fan blades should be ~2ft or greater from any wall,
and clear the path of any doors, cabinets, etc. Generally
speaking the fan will be in the center of the room and
this will not be an issue, but for smaller areas especially
hallways and such it can be difficult. In some cases
the blades may need to be closer than 2ft to a wall
or other surface, this is not recommended, but be sure
there is enough clearance for the fan blades to move
or the fan to sway.
3. In rectangular rooms, where the length is significantly
greater than the width, consider installing two or more
fans evenly spaced. Circulation is most effective when
each fan covers a square area. Extremely large areas
will also require multiple fans, this is usually only
applicable in commercial applications.
As for the charts: the generally accepted figures are:
For rooms 12x12, or 150 square feet and under: 42"
fan
For rooms 20x20, or 400 square feet and under: 52"
fan
For rooms larger than 400 square feet: 56-60"
fan
For rooms smaller than 100 square feet: 30-36"
fan
Based on the shape of the room, ceiling height, etc,
your preference may vary. Also some fans are better
quality and therefore more powerful than others. A poor
quality fan will cover less area than a better fan of
the same size. This is mainly to compel you to buy quality,
however, sometimes the fan desired is not the most effective--
for decorative reasons, cost limitations, etc. In which
case you will want to assume the fan will cover a smaller
area.
V. My ceiling is lower, do
I need a 'hugger' fan?
Hugger fans are designed to provide the minimum distance
between the ceiling and the fan blades. This is ideal
for lower ceilings as it provides the maximum clearance
between the blades (and other lower parts of the fan
such as lights) and the floor. The downside is that
the shorter distance between the blades and the ceiling
impedes circulation to a degree. Hugger ceiling fans
are less effective than regular ceiling fans regardless
of ceiling height.
So when is a Hugger Fan necessary?
For safety reasons it is generally accepted that fan
blades should be no less than 7' from the floor. Most
downrod fans, with the typically included short downrod,
position the blades approximately 12" from the
ceiling. Therefore, downrod fans are normally used on
ceilings 8' and higher. On ceilings lower than 8' one
would typically use a hugger fan, in which the blades
are generally 5-7" from the ceiling.
Another factor is the fan's location. A fan positioned
over a bed or table will require less floor-blades clearance
than one positioned where people will be walking under
it. Keep in mind also if a light will be mounted on
the fan. A light kit can add 6-10" or more to the
fan's total height.
Lastly, many downrod fans are available with "low
profile" kits and/or with a "dual mount"
option. This allows the fan to be mounted with the canopy
directly attached to the motor, and no downrod. In most
cases this allows almost as much clearance as a hugger
fan, with the blades positioned 6-10" from the
ceiling.
VI. My ceiling is higher, how long
of a downrod do I need?
This is another one of those issues out there where
there are many similar charts to answer, and yet there
are a few important points to consider first. Ideally
speaking, for maximum circulation, the blades should
be positioned 8-10' from the floor. However having the
blades too far away from the ceiling can sometimes lessen
the effectiveness of heat destratification. Not to mention
that there is also an aesthetic factor, having the blades
9' from the ceiling on a 15' ceiling may look a little
imposing. This can also be affected by where the fan
is positioned-- a fan hanging over a table will likely
be positioned lower, like a chandelier, compared to
one over a traffic area.
Generally speaking, the 8-10' rule works until you
exceed a 2' downrod. From that point on you need to
balance the above factors.
Here is a generally accepted chart for downrod length:
9' ceiling: 6-12"
10' ceiling: 12-18"
11' ceiling: 18-24"
12' ceiling: 24-30"
13' ceiling: 30-36"
14' ceiling: 36-48"
15' ceiling: 48-60"
VII. What sort of control options
are available?
Most ceiling fans made in recent years have a built
in three-speed pullchain control. Regardless of whether
or not the fan is wired to a separate switch, you have
full control of the fan from the chain. Off-high-medium-low.
Most fans are also reversible and have a reverse switch
built into the fan body. If the fan has a light, the
light will have it's own on-off pullchain. The entire
fan assembly can be controlled without the benefit of
a remote switch.
In most cases the power source to the fan is switched,
such as for a light fixture. In this case both the fan
and light are operated from the wall switch, and controlled
independently from their pullchains. If the fan does
not have a light then it is switched on and off from
the wall switch, with the speeds controlled at the pullchain.
The addition of an unswitched power source to this setup
can result in the options: fan controlled by pullchain,
light by wall switch, and vice versa. In many cases
where the room is wired for a fan with a light, there
will be a 3 wire setup with two separate switches: one
for the fan, one for the light. The fan speeds are still
controlled by the pullchain.
In any situation where there is no light, or the fan
motor is wired and controlled independently from the
light, you can wire a speed control wall switch. It
is wired in series with the fan motor just like a standard
on-off wall switch. Most control options are capacitor-based
and offer 3 or 4 speed selections with an off position.
There are also infinitely variable switch options, these
are usually a solid state control and not meant to be
used with most ceiling fan motors. Do not use a solid-state
speed control on a fan not designed for it. When using
a wall control of any type, set the fan pullchain to
the highest speed setting.
Many companies now offer fans with remote speed control
options that allow for independent fan and light control
without additional wall switches and wiring. These can
include wireless remote controls, replacement wall switches,
and computerized options that involve one, the other,
or both. This allows a fan to be installed in a conventional
two-wire hookup and benefit from the control options
of a 3 wire (two switch) hookup without installing a
third wire. The mobility of a wireless remote and the
features of the computerized controls are additional
benefits.
Ceiling fans with conventional pullchain controls can
be retrofitted with remote speed control options such
as those mentioned above. The retrofit kits include
the wall or wireless remote control, and a receiver
that is attached inside the ceiling fan canopy and wires
between the fan and the power source. The receiver requires
only a two-wire power source, switched or unswitched.
Some older ceiling fans, as well as industrial models
both current and older, do not include a built in pullchain
speed control. These fans are one speed only and operate
on high whenever power is applied. These are designed
to be used with a wall control and many are acceptable
for use with solid state (infinitely variable) speed
controls. These fans are usually not light kit adaptable
or not reversible.
American made ceiling fans in the early 80s had a speed
control option that was considered luxurious at the
time: a variable speed (solid state) control built in
to the fan body. This was a rotary knob attached to
the "switch housing" of the fan below the
blades. Sometimes the knob would click to an off position,
in other examples there was a separate on-off pullchain.
In the most complicated examples the pullchain also
had a 'high' speed option that bypassed the variable
speed control, and so the control selected the low speed.
Many of these fans are reversible with a separate switch
on the fan body, or a reverse option on the pullchain
control. The disadvantage of this variable speed option:
one had to reach near the moving fan blades to adjust
the speed, and sometimes it was also noisy. Some companies
designed silent variable speed control systems for higher
end fans, these were effective but often unreliable.
Additionally, some older fans had the conventional
pullchain control, but with a different number of speeds:
2, 4, or even 1. These days 3 speeds is considered standard
whether it is by pullchain, wall control or remote control
operation.
VIII. How many blades is best?
These days ceiling fans are available with any number
of blades from one to eight, although any number below
3 and above 6 is for novelty or decorative purposes
only. Most fans have 4 or 5 blades, some are adaptable
to take either.
Most people assume that more blades move more air,
i.e. a fan with five blades moves more air than a fan
with four blades. This, in fact, is incorrect. More
blades results in a greater load on the motor, and a
greater load on the motor causes it to operate at a
slower speed. A fan with less blades operating at a
faster speed will more more air than a fan with more
blades operating at a slower speed. This is why most
commercial fans have three blades and a high speed motor,
to provide the greatest amount of airflow efficiently.
However, one thing about commercial fans is, noise
is less of a factor than in residential situations.
A 3 blade fan operating at a high speed is often quite
noisy-- not a buzz or hum, but the helicopter noise
of air moving. The greater number of blades and the
slower the speed, the less noisy a fan will be. This
is why residential fans (especially smaller models that
operate at higher speeds overall) offer as many as 6
blades. Usually the additional noise of a four blade
fan versus a five blade fan is not noticeable, but it
can depend on the fan size and the motor speed.
This comparison assumes similar fans with similar motors.
Obviously a 4 blade fan with a small, inexpensive motor
will move less air than a 5 blade fan with a larger,
more powerful motor, and probably be noisier as well.
IX. What are the quality differences
between fans on the market?
Many different fans are available these days, with
a great degree of different options, styles, designs,
and prices. Often times people buy a fan for appearance-based
reasons. But most consumers, about to spend a significant
amount of money on a ceiling fan (or fans) are concerned
about getting the best quality product, or at the very
least the best quality product within their price range.
It is a commonly held theory that you get what you
pay for: the more something costs, the better quality
it is. As with many products, that is generally true
with ceiling fans, but there are other factors. When
you buy a ceiling fan you are paying for three things:
1. Quality and features
2. Design/style
3. Name recognition
The most expensive fan may be the best quality, or
it may be the most expensive design, or it may be the
best known brand name.
Fortunately there are other published factors used
in determining quality.
a. CFM. CFM stands for "cubic feet per minute"
and directly measures the amount of air moved. The higher
the CFM rating, the more air the fan moves. Unfortunately
many companies do not publish CFM ratings.
b. Motor type and size. The best motors still made
are 18 pole stack-type motors such as the Emerson K55
and the Casablanca XLP. These motors are based on American-made
designs and are powerful, efficient, and quiet. These
motors generally use a rubber flywheel to mount the
blades. These are the best motor option still offered
by a wide margin. Fans that do not use a stack-type
motor customarily use an imported 16 pole spinner motor
often euphemized as a 'direct drive' motor. These motors
can be very good quality or they can be extremely cheap.
Many fan companies publish the size of the stator, from
153mm x 10mm (and smaller) to 212mm x 25mm. The larger
stator, the more powerful motor. Also, the majority
of these motors use ball bearings, but any that do not
are significantly less in quality. The bottom line in
choosing a motor: there are many fans with spinner motors,
but there has NEVER been a bad fan with a K55 type motor.
The motor is the most important component of a fan.
The best motors will not only move the most air, but
also be the quietest and most reliable.
c. Blade pitch and RPM. RPM stands for "revolutions
per minute" and measures the maximum speed of the
fan. This alone does not determine how much air is moved,
however combined with the degree at which the blades
are pitched one can make a fairly good comparison. The
fan with the greater combination of RPM and blade pitch
is the fan that will move more air. This is only for
consideration when CFM is not published. Also, a motor
that is able to drive a blade set with a steeper pitch
at a faster speed is typically a stronger motor.
d. Materials. A fan that moves a lot of air isn't much
use if it isn't going to last. The best fans use die
cast motor housings, with durable finishes, solid wood
or multi-ply furniture grade blades. You want finishes
that will not rust or pit, blades that will not warp
or wobble, brackets and other parts that will not break.
e. Weight. It is a common theory that the heavier the
fan, the better quality, and in many cases this is correct.
Larger motors, solidly constructed housings and blades
will weigh significantly more than lesser fans. Dealing
especially with the motor-- the more iron in the core
of a motor, the more heat it is able to dissipate, and
the more iron, the heavier it is. However some fans
can be deceiving. There have been some examples of manufactures
adding weights inside the housing of fans to make them
seem heavier. More commonly, a fan might also be heavier
because of certain added decorative accessories, 10lbs
of scrollwork, etc. Glass and other decorative motor
housings and attachments can add significant weight.
Comparing fan weights can be useful but be sure you
are aware of the source of the weight.
f. Warranty. Another common theory is that the fan
with the longest, most inclusive warranty is the best
quality fan. This is not always correct. Most companies
assume that the consumer will either move, or replace
the fan for decorative reasons prior to problems occurring.
And when problems do occur, most people do not realize
if their fan is still under warranty. Therefore most
companies claim a substantial warranty regardless of
the quality and expected life span of the fan. However
when buying a fan it is often useful to compare warranties,
not because it speaks to the quality of the fan, but
because you may have problems with your fan and wish
to use it. Most warranties are for the motor only, and
all other parts to the fan are only covered for a year
or less. The most important factor to look for is a
warranty that not only covers the motor but also the
switches, other electronics, and any other parts that
could likely go bad.
IXa. What about American
Made fans? Are they still available, and are they significantly
better than imports?
The first ceiling fans (of the late 1800s) were American
made and were a very simple, solid design: huge cast
housings with solid wood blades attaching directly to
the rotor. The earliest examples had intricate ornate
casting and may have been brass, copper, etc. Ceiling
fans were consistently American made, even as designs
changed, for almost a century. And as designed changed,
the American-made quality was also consistent with few
and rare exceptions. In 1981 imported ceiling fans became
popular. The imported fans introduced the "spinner"
type motor, which has the rotor outside the stator unlike
the American made designs.
These days the majority of fans are made overseas regardless
of motor type. The highest quality models still use
the American made designs and motors such as the K55.
As stated above in the motor section, there are certainly
some quality imported fans with spinner motors. However
the best models use the K55 type motors, and these are
the fans that are either made in America or according
to American-made designs and standards.
IXb. What makes
a ceiling fan Energy Efficient? How do I consider this
when choosing a fan?
There are three factors:
1. How much air is moved
2. How much current is drawn
3. The quality and construction of the fan
Obviously the most efficient ceiling fan would be that
which has the best #1/#2 ratio. However #3 is also a
very important factor in buying a ceiling fan, and just
because a fan has the best ratio does not mean it moves
the most air. A fan that draws very little power but
moves very little air may be considered very efficient.
All ceiling fans draw roughly the same amount of current.
The difference is not nearly as drastic compared to,
say, the difference between an incandescent bulb and
a compact fluorescent. The efficiency ratings deal with
minute differences and don't deal with the actual quality
and performance of the fan. So, in my opinion, it's
better to buy a fan based on #1 and #3.
An increasing number of ceiling fans are being tested
and qualified for Energy Star energy efficiency ratings.
Energy Star claims that any ceiling fan that has earned
their rating is 10-20% more efficient than the majority
of fans sold. In order to qualify for the Energy Star
rating a fan must have a minimum airflow of 5,000 CFM
and have an "efficiency rating" of 75 CFM/watt
on high speed. This rating is the abovementioned ratio
of airflow to power consumption. This means a fan moving
the minimum required amount of airflow (5,000 CFM) would
draw 67 watts or less. A ceiling fan rated by Energy
Star may or may not be the best quality option, but
it is usually more efficient.
An additional note: if the fan has a light kit, the
light kit is much more crucial to energy consumption
than the fan motor. Ceiling fans typically draw ~100
watts or less on the highest speed setting, however
the typical four socket light kit draws 240 watts consistently.
Much more important than finding the most efficient
motor, in this case, is maximizing the efficiency of
the light kit. Compact Fluorescent light bulbs are ideal
for this purpose-- the same light kit will then draw
60 watts or less.
X. Fan Operation:
What speed and direction settings should be used?
This is a very subjective topic, and for most it was
probably answered by parts I & II above. There are
a number of factors that vary by setting and situation--
fan location, ceiling height, fan model, and most importantly,
what purpose is intended. A few suggestions that may
or may not apply:
1. It is unlikely that a fan would be used on high
except to create a significant breeze. When you wish
to do so the fan would be used in the downdraft setting.
Depending on how much of a breeze is wanted medium speed
may also be acceptable.
2. For a gentle breeze and circulation, in most cases
the fan would be used on low in the downdraft setting.
This would only be applicable in a low ceiling situation
such as a bedroom. On a higher ceiling the fan would
have to be set to a slightly higher speed to feel any
sort of breeze.
3. To destratify heat (and for circulation) on a lower
ceiling, the fan would be generally set to updraft mode
in low or medium speed. Heat can also be recirculated
with low speed in the downdraft mode, depending on which
produces more of a notable breeze.
4. To destratify heat (and for circulation) on a higher
ceiling, the fan can be used on high or medium in updraft
mode, or medium to low in downdraft mode.
The most consistently effective setting for circulation
is low in downdraft mode. It is quite common to set
the fan this way unless more of a breeze is required.
Xa. Is there any
purpose to running the fan constantly even when people
are not present, or is this a waste of energy?
This is a hotly contested topic. On the one hand, the
primary purpose of a ceiling fan is to provide a breeze.
There is certainly no purpose for an indoor breeze if
there is no one there to feel it.
On the other hand, in most cases the heat or air conditioning
is still functioning even when people leave, so that
the home remains a habitable temperature for return.
Ceiling fans do aid in the effectiveness of heating
and air conditioning when operating for the purpose
of circulation. Increasing the effectiveness of the
HVAC system can in turn save a significant amount of
energy.
XI. How effective
are ceiling fans with heaters built in?
Ceiling fans with built in heaters are not a new concept,
however a long defunct company held the patent of them
until recently, so they were uncommon for many years
and have recently seen a reoccurrence.
The most important thing to remember about any electric
heater is that they use a great amount of electricity.
This includes ceiling fan heaters as well as space heaters,
etc. They are available with a variety of different
sizes and settings, but the average uses ~1000 watts.
It is not wise to use an electric heater unless it is
absolutely necessary, using a heater ceiling fan (for
example) in conjunction with an effective furnace etc
will NOT save energy. So it would be a fair assumption
that you should only consider a heater ceiling fan in
a situation where you would also consider an electric
space heater or the like.
But here's the thing: fan or not, why would you want
a heater mounted in the ceiling? Heat rises. Much more
efficient to be mounted near the floor. Then when it
rises, as it ultimately will, you have the fan to circulate
it back down. I suppose if the room is well circulated
it wouldn't matter where the heater was mounted, but
even with a fan that's hard. It would be hard to have
a ceiling fan heater effectively heat to cover an entire
area.
The primary advantage of a ceiling fan heater is, the
heat is directly in the path of the fan's airflow, and
so if you have both the heater and the fan operating,
when standing near it you will feel a warm breeze. This
could be very useful in a cold working environment such
as a garage.
Whether or not one has a setting that would benefit
from a heater ceiling fan is specific and subjective.
XII. What is the
use for a fan mounted outside, such as on a porch? What
sort of fan is recommended?
Outdoor fans are very common in the south. The purpose
seems to be this:
Say you're sitting outside on your porch in the summer,
what feels better than the breeze? But some days have
no wind. So that's when you turn on the fans. They also
drive bugs away.
If a fan is going to be exposed to rain and snow and
such, you'll want to make sure it is sealed so water
cannot get into electrical parts. If it's not actually
going to be getting wet, just somewhere exposed to changes
in climate (a covered porch, etc) you generally look
for a fan with a finish that wont rust and blades that
wont warp. You don't necessarily need a special "outdoor
fan" for this. Especially common in the south,
people have been using Hunter Originals outside for
decades.
Many companies offer fans that are specifically rated
for these situations. These fans will have Underwriters
Laboratories certification for damp or wet locations.
If a fan is going to be subjected to these conditions
it is important that it is able to do so safely.
XIII. Ceiling fan
lights-- what options are available?
Ceiling fans being used with light attachments have
become more and more common as years progress. It is
significantly easier to install a ceiling fan where
there is an existing light fixture than where there
is nothing, but if you are removing a light source you
will need to replace it. As a result, the majority of
ceiling fans sold include light kits already attached.
All but the least expensive fans that include lights
also include an option that allows the fan to be used
without the light if necessary. This consists of a blank
cap that covers the bottom of the fan where the light
kit would attach. In most cases this cap also allows
a separately sold light kit to be attached to the fan
in place of the included option.
All ceiling fans sold without light kits are adaptable
for light kits, with rare exception. The exception is
usually industrial models and fans that have decorative
attachments on the bottom where the light would mount.
Most places that sell fans offer a variety of light
kits so that a consumer has many different choices.
XIIIa. I am replacing a large
light fixture, and most fan lights arent bright enough.
What fan or fan light kit do I buy?
Get a small good quality fan WITHOUT A LIGHT and buy
the light kit separate. Get one of the light kits that
accepts five bulbs, four on the sides and one in the
center (the pull chain on the light should be able to
select all five lights, just the outer four, or just
the center light). In each of the sockets put some 15-20
watt Compact Fluorescent bulbs. Incandescent bulbs may
be tempting as they are cheaper, however you will not
be nearly as pleased with the light, and Compact Fluorescent
bulbs pay for themselves VERY quickly. I also suggest
putting a small, 50 watt halogen floodlight in the center
socket. This is to add a direct downlight as well as
a warmer tone.
Copyright © 2005 Dan Neuman
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